Christmas in Santiago de Compostela

I am still way behind with my posts so will try and do some catchup. I am not sure if I will be able to add photos, but if not, I will do a separate post as I have done previously. Having read this post you should be able to work out what the photos are.

I have ticked quite a few boxes, indeed all, since being in and out of Santiago over the past few weeks, so let me give you a run down of them, and as you will see I have been quite busy – hence my tardiness!

I had a lovely Christmas in Santiago. I arrived a day early, wet and bedraggled, but I was booked into a lovely hotel very near the Cathedral. I used my extra time to sort out things like collect a parcel from the post office, which I had sent on from León, go to the laundromat and such like.  

Santiago was surprisingly busy, with quite a few pilgrims arriving for both Christmas and the New Year, though I think many were trying hard to get there before the end of the Holy Year – one of the reasons I was there at that time as I wanted to see the closing of the Holy Door, or rather the mass that went with it.

Back to Christmas. This was a couple of days filled with music, fun and friendship. It began on Christmas Eve attending mass at the church where John plays the organ. This was a service with wonderful music led by a lovely young priest called Danny. Even though I couldn’t understand what he said I did hear words, apart from Spanish, in English, French and Italian. He speaks all of those languages! He, and the priest who took the Christmas Day service, were guests at John’s Christmas table. Anyway, back to the Christmas Eve service. John promised good music, and he delivered. The congregation sang, Stephen was the cantor leading the service with his beautiful voice, and, at times, the organ thundered. After the service a group of us were led to John’s house where we partook of a “light” supper. I might add that all this trekking back and forth was done in steady rain, with the streets awash.

There was a midnight Mass in the Cathedral which I decided to attend. Here I was treated to the sounds of the Cathedral Choir. The sound billowed around the cathedral, but I never saw them as they were up high, presumably near the organ loft somewhere. Interestingly, though the organ was strong, the congregational participation was markedly less than earlier at San Agostin.

Christmas Day dawned as wet as the previous days. It was off to midday Mass, then back to John’s for what he promised would be a looong, traditional (Scottish) lunch, and it was. Wonderful food, including lentil soup, prawns by the spoonful, Turkey, and plum pudding. I think it was about 1.30 when we started, and I got home about 7.00ish – certainly looong, but wonderful food and fellowship.

One of my goals in being in Santiago at this time was to see the Nativity scenes or Belén as they are called. I am happy. I have seen them, plus a few in other places. They even have moving models – women shaking rugs, someone fishing, men playing cards, a blacksmith hammering and so on. In one of the Beléns the camels are nodding their heads , and the kings sitting on them also move. It is all quite extraordinary, and I had to go back several times to make sure I saw everything.

Another of my goals this trip was to attend the Mass for the closing of the holy door. At first there was discussion that I might need a ticket, but all was well and I got into the service without any issue. The music was more contemporary, but the sounds of the organ billowed around the cathedral, the choir was in fine voice, and, eventually the Puerta Santa was locked, until the next Holy Year. I lost count of the number of priests participating in the service, along with the other folk such as herald types etc, and lots of men in military type uniforms, bedecked with medals. Of course at the end of the service the botefumerio was swung and with the incense from that, and more than usual incense throughout the service, the whole building had quite a haze about it.

After the service in the late afternoon I had a few minutes rest before following John’s instructions to arrive at 8.30 for a 9.00 hogmany dinner to bring in the New Year. Again, great company and a wonderful meal cooked by John, including haggis croquettes, steak pie, and LOTS of vegetables – something often lacking in Spanish food (or at the bars at any rate).

Another goal was to be in Santiago for Three Kings Eve. Most towns and villages have a procession of the kings who, with the help of their assistants, throw out liberal quantities of wrapped boiled sweets. One friend said she thought that everyone who lives in Santiago was there. The streets were jam packed, parents with young children, grandparents, teenagers and ringins like me!. John had told us that we would have plenty of time to see “the kings” and get to the special mass. He didn’t take into account what happens with the crowd when they all decide to move. Not making much progress, and being shoved by a woman behind me I locked onto their “train” and made headway. The señor had his hands on the shoulders of the Señora and was pushing her through the crowd like a bulldozer, and by attaching myself to them I eventually broke free. 

Arriving at John’s Church I only missed the first little bit of a song sung by the Galician choir who were participating in the service. It was great to hear them, a male choir, though at the end of the service they sang some more and for the last song they invited the women to join them. For me, a real musical treat. I couldn’t help but compare the congregational participation with the cathedral. There it is sometimes not evident that the congregation are participating in the singing at all, whereas at San Agostin they were loudly doing so.

In between all these activities I have also been walking, but that can wait for the next post. There is a lot to tell about that too. Since arriving in Santiago I have only had 5 days of fine weather!