Camino Portuguese, part 2
Tui is a lovely name for a town. It rolls off the tongue and sings, like the NZ bird of the same name, and I was expecting a pretty town. After crossing the bridge from Valença though the impression I got was of drab greyness. Unfortunately, this appears to be a town hit by the hard times in recent years, with many shop fronts closed, or vacant. It is quite a long walk up the hill into the centre of Tui, the old town. For a while it looked as if I was going to have accommodation issues again, as the Pensions seemed to be closed, but I found an albergue, new, that also had private rooms, booking 2 nights in an effort to give my foot a rest.
The shopping precinct in Tui, in sun and cloud
A residential street in Tui, looking towards the Rio Coura
Tui Cathedral
The Cathedral dominates the town, perched on top of the hill, with streets lined with ancient buildings, down to a more affluent shopping precinct. It was in this shopping precinct that my hostess booked a physio appointment for me. It helped, but was still tender the next morning when I set off down some ancient stairs, and narrow little alleys. Once negotiating this labyrinth, I was faced with a dilemma, with my map directing me one way and the signs, suggesting a detour, going the other. With no option, I stopped in the naval office, asked directions, and was on my way again.
Leaving Tui on a misty morning
Along with steps, there even a tunnel to negotiate.
It was a pretty way, ancient buildings, and regular views of the river. Even an ancient bridge. Sadly it didn’t continue this way, as the path was next to a busy road for some distance. With my foot getting no better, as I walked, I was beginning to wonder how much further I would be able to go when another Camino angel crossed my path. This was Javier who just happened to be talking to a couple of Portuguese pilgrims from Lisbon. When I could get a word in, I asked if he was going to O Porriño, my destination for the day. His response of “I am now” – even though I don’t think he was – meant that I loaded my pack into his little white van, and could rest. He is a member of the amigos group, and very enthusiastic about the Camino. He didn’t take the main road, instead following, mostly, the way of the Camino which was on quiet backroads, giving me an opportunity to see what I was missing. He even took me on several detours to show me where the path goes in the summer, some of this stretch being underwater! At one point I had visions of us getting bogged, but these little vans turn on a threepence, and he pointed the nose up the hill, and launched into some rally driving to negotiate the muddy, slippery slope.
At one point I had to negotiate a small landslide
There was an ancient bridge, with the path not passable ....
... and a path beside a water course, according to Javier wonderfully cool in the summer
Once arriving in O Porriño, Javier then took it upon himself to find somewhere for me to stay. The first choice, a small 1 star hotel, was closed, so it was then to the second choice – a pension, and more Camino angels! My hosts were so kind, helping me find accommodation for the next night (I was still hoping to continue walking), and even arranging for me to catch a taxi with an English speaking driver to save my foot. To thank her, I took Raquel and her 86 yr old mother to the church to sing for them.
O Porriño lay claim to another famous Spanish architect, Antonio Palacios. He designed this building in O Porriño, along with the “communication palace” in Madrid
Coffee with Javier
Redondela was the next destination, to which I caught a taxi. While there I went to Victor, a wonderful physio, who worked his magic, but to no avail. The next day I was headed for Pontevedra, but only managed to walk about 6 kms before being obliged to call a taxi. My driver kept stopping the meter and taking me to highlights that shouldn’t be missed. “A present” for me was what he kept saying. Again, kindness and generosity.
Redondela has a train bridge going right through the centre of town.
Leaving Redondela
Pontevedra is a large and interesting town. For some reason there are massive palm trees as street trees along many of the streets. It looks a bit strange, combined with the prolific plantings of camellias everywhere. A rest day in Pontevedra did nothing to improve my foot and so I reluctantly called it a day, catching the train to Santiago de Compostela a couple of days early.
Just some of the pink granite that this region is famous for, particularly around O Porriño.
Camelia trees in parks and gardens all over Galicia
La iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, Pontevedra
Palm trees in Pontevedra
The Roman / medieval bridge the path crosses on way to Pontevedra
In Santiago I went to my third physio (twice), who repeated what others had said - that I had twisted and sprained my ankle. I have absolutely no idea how or when I did it, and as I said earlier, with hindsight, I think I can hold the rain of that first day from Barcelos, combined with the cobbles, responsible! I have been told that it may take 3-4 weeks to get better, and so expect to see me limping when I get home! This may or may not be my last post. I am meant, at this minute, to be checking into my hotel in Barcelona. I am, instead, sitting on a broken down train waiting for a replacement one to arrive! This is the first of the four days it will take me to get home!
Looking forward to seeing you safely back home, considering your ankle may need a bit of a rest to recover. xx
ReplyDeleteAt Charles de Gaulle now. That has had an upgrade since I was last here. Will see you all soon.
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