The ascent and descent from Rabanal del Camino.

For some reason all the photos posted have disappeared from this post - i will continue to try and fix it as i have unexpected time on my hands. Check back later to see if i have been successful!

Yesterday dawned cold - but dry. The light on the clouds, on the buildings as I left the village, and on the vegetation was very beautiful. The day began with no mist, but as the day progressed, each time I looked back, I could see a bank of misty cloud stalking me. I was very relieved that it didn't catch me until I was off the mountain.



Rabanal del Camino.



Leaving Rabanal del Camino. 



The path heading up to Foncebadón. 

There was no breakfast to be had in Rabanal, the hotel owners deciding that was the day they were going to sleep in! I was told that it would be possible to get breakfast in Fancebadón, but it wasn't to be! Thus the food for nearly the whole day was muesli bars!



Being chased by the clouds!

The climb up to Cruz de Ferro is steady and very pleasant, with spectacular views. The village of Foncebadón is the first village that the Camino passes through. It was here that, supposedly, Shirley MacClaine met a pack of wild dogs while walking the Camino in the late '90's. When I walked through this village in 2005 there were only a couple of habitable buildings. Now there are too many to count, numerous accommodation places, including hotels, and the dirt road through the village is now concrete, but the cross, which had pride of place in the middle of that dirt track still stands in the same place in the middle of the road. I think this village, more than any other, stands testament to the popularity, and the economic benefits of the Camino to these remote villages. 



Foncebadón, now a prosperous looking village.





Foncebadón 

A highlight of this stage is the Cruz de Ferro, or Iron Cross, the highest point on the Camino Francés. It is here that many pilgrims leave a pebble from home, leaving their prayers and worries at the foot of the Cross. Last time I was here, there were drifts of snow near the mountain of stones and pebbles, but not so this time.



Cruz de Ferro 

It is the descent from the Cruz de Ferro that is hard. Care really needs to be taken because parts of the path are very rocky, and this time, there are numerous wash-aways from heavy rain. Added to that, there were numerous puddles, some very large, to negotiate, with alternatives as slippery. Again, back in 2014, it was easier as these puddles were frozen, as was the mud. Back then, I quickly learnt how to safely negotiate the frozen mud and puddles. This time it was more hazardous - very easy to slip!



Still climbing.

The descent, in parts, is very steep, adding to the need for care. Before reaching the final descent the path goes past an iconic albergue at Manjarin. This is owned by Thomas, who claims to be a descendant of the Knights Templar. He has had numerous run-ins with authorities, who want to close him down, but though he was absent yesterday I haven't heard that the authorities have yet to be successful! Walking this section, one is lulled into a false sense of ease, as there is one more ascent to conquer before heading downhill!



Manjarin- not a place I would seek refuge by choice!



I was feeling pretty tired by the time I reached El Acebo. Stopping in the only open bar for a late lunch, I was offered a ride down the rest of the mountain which I had no hesitation in accepting! Because I was tired I knew it was potentially risky going down the steep, rocky, gorge to Molinaseca, and so this was a good option.



The descent ...



... into El Acebo. 

Since then I have changed my plans, and am still trying to sort the next few days as this morning I did a RAT and tested positive. I am in the town of Villafranca del Bierzo, having bussed here last night. I have been up the street and had lunch, wearing a mask whenever I was near people, and sitting outside to eat. Apart from a cough, which is what made me test, I feel fine - just a bit tired, but this might also be due to the strenuous activity of the past few days!



Scenes from Villafranca del Bierzo. 



I am not a cat person, but thought this scene was cute. 





The tree is a reflection in the window, but had to show this Christmas decorated window - in butcher's shop!